I'm in Bath now (close to Wales in western England), and goodness, I'm paying £1 per 20 minutes of blogging, so I need to be concise. (That sentence just cost me 5 pence!)
I got up early yesterday morning and checked out of the hotel and left my luggage downstairs. I took the Tube to St Paul's Cathedral in the business district and was there by 0830 when it opened. I felt especially conspicuous as a tourist during morning rush hour when everyone else was wearing suits and ties.
The cathedral is 550 feet long (read--massive) and 250 feet wide across the transcept. I like the nave a lot more--it was decorated according to Sir Christopher Wren's plan of elegant simplicity, whereas the choir ceiling glittered in a cacophony of colored glass mosaics, evidently to Queen Victoria's liking. Understated and inspiring it was not. I enjoyed wandering around and seeing various monuments--Sir Wellington (who defeated Napoleon at Waterloo) and Lord Nelson (who defeated the French navy at sea). Britain's history as a nation is so tied in with St. Paul's Cathedral that secular monuments such as these have found their way into the ancient church.
The absolute thrill, however, was climbing a few hundred steps first to the Whispering Gallery above the transcept at the very base of the dome, then to the Stone Gallery (outside, just before the dome starts to narrow), and finally to the Golden Gallery (outside, nearly 400 feet above the street below). There, I beheld London in the cool morning, with clouds streaked above the Thames. In the distance I could see the Houses of Parliament, and below men hurried to work and buses navigated the narrow streets, but up above the city lay in the peace of the morning.
My next stop was the British Museum where I saw many old things that were conspicuously missing from my parents and my tour of Egypt, as well as a good part of the Parthenon's art. I'm so glad it's here in London instead of all in Athens, so that more people can see it. It's really for the world's advantage.
I worked my way to Victoria Station and caught a three-hour bus trip to Bath, which I will write more on later. Suffice it to say that, although thankful to know now what it's like to stay in a hostel, I now better appreciate a non-springy bed, complimentary towels, privacy and such.
Wednesday, March 14, 2007
Tuesday, March 13, 2007
London versus New York
- Cleanliness--London by far. It's amazing how people take care of this city. Especially considering how difficult it can be to find a trash can.
- Subway/Underground--London (cleaner, newer, more comfortable cars)
- Rats--New York. I consider rats in the subway a good luck sign, and I have yet to see a rat in Britain.
- Accent--London. Can you even begin to compare a gentle & distinguished British accent to an obnoxious Brooklyn one?
- Nosepicking--New York. New Yorkers know the proper way to pick one's nose: in private, with tissue.
- Bodies of water: Sure the Thames is nice, but New York wins hands down with the massive Hudson, the spacious harbor, and the broad East River. One of the most beautiful views of New York I've seen is from a boat, looking out over the upper harbor at Lower Manhattan rising from the water.
- Bridges--New York. The Brooklyn, Manhattan, and George Washington Bridge are three winners. The Westminster Bridge does have its charm, but it was handicapped when I saw it with all the renovation equipment around. And after I found out the Tower Bridge was built in the 1870s, I had about as much respect for it as I have for Cinderella's Castle at DisneyWorld.
- Cabs--London. I love the little black cars. I mean really--it's not hard to beat Ford Crown Victorias.
- Escalators--London. Yes! People know to stand on the right to let those who prefer to walk up or down escalators take the left! In the States, about half the people observe this etiquette, while the other half are both lazy and oblivious.
- Parks--I have to give it to New York with its amazing Central Park. I know I haven't seen London at its best, but whereas Hyde Park is huge, it's mostly just that. On the other hand, I didn't get to see some of the gardens in London, so I'll hold off on a final pronouncement.
- Overall charm--London. It has the advantage being an older city--and come to think of it I pretty much just saw the older parts and not the sprawling suburbs--but that is the heart of London whereas Manhattan is the heart of New York. Manhattan is big and impressive, but London, with its spaghetti-noodle streets, red double-decker buses, ancient buildings, polite citizens, and cozy pubs wins.
Coming clean about Les Mis
For those interested readers, TKTS is the name of a discounted theater ticket booth which offers reduced-price tickets for same-day shows in both London and New York.
And with regard to the title of the post--I did not run out of time last night on my post. I deleted the paragraph I'd written about Les Mis, knowing how most people feel about it. I didn't want to write anything inflammatory or upset people. Then I thought, ''Wait a minute, this is MY blog, I can express my opinions!''
So here they are: I found the musical uncompelling. The characters weren't well developed. The staging & set flat-out bored be. And the music was unmemorable, with the possible exception of the falsetto-drenched ''Bring Him Home''. Oh, I did like ''I Dreamed a Dream'', too.
So there. I think the musical is self-consciously so caught up in trying to tell a personal-yet-epic story that it fails to do both. Give me Sondheim over Schonberg any day. My apologies DO and CFA, but I think we can still be friends. (DO, perhaps you meant it's ''head and shoulders'' above Tarzan, which it is.)
And with regard to the title of the post--I did not run out of time last night on my post. I deleted the paragraph I'd written about Les Mis, knowing how most people feel about it. I didn't want to write anything inflammatory or upset people. Then I thought, ''Wait a minute, this is MY blog, I can express my opinions!''
So here they are: I found the musical uncompelling. The characters weren't well developed. The staging & set flat-out bored be. And the music was unmemorable, with the possible exception of the falsetto-drenched ''Bring Him Home''. Oh, I did like ''I Dreamed a Dream'', too.
So there. I think the musical is self-consciously so caught up in trying to tell a personal-yet-epic story that it fails to do both. Give me Sondheim over Schonberg any day. My apologies DO and CFA, but I think we can still be friends. (DO, perhaps you meant it's ''head and shoulders'' above Tarzan, which it is.)
Monday, March 12, 2007
The worst pies in London
Another day winds to a close. Sunday morning dawned bright and sunny, which made for an enjoyable walk to church at All Souls, where my friend Andy used to go. London, especially that area around Oxford Circus, manages to maintain a sense of charm despite the paucity of trees.
In the afternoon, I met up with a guy from my NYC church, Tim, who happened to be in London the same time as me, Tim's host Helen, and Helen's son Barnaby. Helen's husband Jonathan was away watching a rugby match, which is just as well since two Jonathan's in one party can make things complicated. We met at the recently developed Canary Wharf area and then took a train across the Thames to the lovely park at Greenwich. The hill afforded sweeping views of London and the river; perched at the top of the slope was the observatory with 0 degrees longitude running through it. That's right, Greenwich Mean Time. I enjoyed the sunshine, and the weather, probably approaching sixty degrees, was far warmer than New York has been this year.
We strolled down to the water and took a cruise up the Thames to Westminster, viewing such sights along the way as the Tower of London, the Tower Bridge, the City Hall, St Paul's Cathedral, the Eye of London, and the Houses of Parliament. (Pictures to follow) The guide had a running line of witty commentary, and the delivery was even more impressive considering he probably gives it multiple times daily. There, I learned for the first time that ''wharf'' is short for ''warehouse at river front.''
From there, Tim and Helen headed back home, whereas I, armed with my Rick Steves' London 2007 (Thank you, Scott--one of the best host gifts ever!), set out in search of dinner. I had some tradional British fare near Picadilly Circus--roast beef, yorkshire pudding, carrots, potatoes, tea, and an apple crisp.
Even after crawling into bed at 10:00 PM, it wasn't hard to sleep till 8:00 sans alarm. I'd arranged to meet Tim again at 10:00, which didn't leave much time for sightseeing beforehand. There was just enough time to take a half-mile walk to Hyde Park and romp about in the foggy cool morning before heading back to the hotel to meet Tim.
After Tim ate breakfast and I had a cup of tea, we ventured out again. Our first stop was Westminster Abbey, which was closed today. So we instead explored the neighborhood a bit before walking again up Whitehall to Trafalgar Square. I suggested we could see the National Gallery, but Tim responded that he preferred the outside of museums to the inside. (Sometimes it is easier, perhaps, to vacation by oneself!) I stopped by the TKTS at Leicester Square, and then we began the long walk down the Strand, across Blackbriar Bridge, by the Tate Modern, and back across the Millenium Bridge to St Paul's. The day, again, was sunny and warm enough for a tee-shirt, so I tied my sweater around my waist.
Sitting atop a red double-decker bus was a great way to see London as we rode all the way back to Hyde Park and walked through some parts I hadn't seen this morning. We finished the afternoon walking through South Kensington where Tim and I split paths. He heads back to New York tomorrow.
After a short nap at the hotel, I showered & changed before heading back to Picadilly Circus for my £25 musical--Les Miserables.
I'm nearly out of time at my internet cafe, so until next time...
In the afternoon, I met up with a guy from my NYC church, Tim, who happened to be in London the same time as me, Tim's host Helen, and Helen's son Barnaby. Helen's husband Jonathan was away watching a rugby match, which is just as well since two Jonathan's in one party can make things complicated. We met at the recently developed Canary Wharf area and then took a train across the Thames to the lovely park at Greenwich. The hill afforded sweeping views of London and the river; perched at the top of the slope was the observatory with 0 degrees longitude running through it. That's right, Greenwich Mean Time. I enjoyed the sunshine, and the weather, probably approaching sixty degrees, was far warmer than New York has been this year.
We strolled down to the water and took a cruise up the Thames to Westminster, viewing such sights along the way as the Tower of London, the Tower Bridge, the City Hall, St Paul's Cathedral, the Eye of London, and the Houses of Parliament. (Pictures to follow) The guide had a running line of witty commentary, and the delivery was even more impressive considering he probably gives it multiple times daily. There, I learned for the first time that ''wharf'' is short for ''warehouse at river front.''
From there, Tim and Helen headed back home, whereas I, armed with my Rick Steves' London 2007 (Thank you, Scott--one of the best host gifts ever!), set out in search of dinner. I had some tradional British fare near Picadilly Circus--roast beef, yorkshire pudding, carrots, potatoes, tea, and an apple crisp.
Even after crawling into bed at 10:00 PM, it wasn't hard to sleep till 8:00 sans alarm. I'd arranged to meet Tim again at 10:00, which didn't leave much time for sightseeing beforehand. There was just enough time to take a half-mile walk to Hyde Park and romp about in the foggy cool morning before heading back to the hotel to meet Tim.
After Tim ate breakfast and I had a cup of tea, we ventured out again. Our first stop was Westminster Abbey, which was closed today. So we instead explored the neighborhood a bit before walking again up Whitehall to Trafalgar Square. I suggested we could see the National Gallery, but Tim responded that he preferred the outside of museums to the inside. (Sometimes it is easier, perhaps, to vacation by oneself!) I stopped by the TKTS at Leicester Square, and then we began the long walk down the Strand, across Blackbriar Bridge, by the Tate Modern, and back across the Millenium Bridge to St Paul's. The day, again, was sunny and warm enough for a tee-shirt, so I tied my sweater around my waist.
Sitting atop a red double-decker bus was a great way to see London as we rode all the way back to Hyde Park and walked through some parts I hadn't seen this morning. We finished the afternoon walking through South Kensington where Tim and I split paths. He heads back to New York tomorrow.
After a short nap at the hotel, I showered & changed before heading back to Picadilly Circus for my £25 musical--Les Miserables.
I'm nearly out of time at my internet cafe, so until next time...
Saturday, March 10, 2007
mark113.blogspot.co.uk
Well, I'm here. London. My third vacation of the year is off to a grand start! I had a blessedly uneventful trip here. Planning to get to JFK airport 2 hours before my evening flight, and giving myself two hours for the ~25 mile commute meant I didn't feel pressed for time.
I have to say that I cannot strongly recommend Air India. My seat assignment--54K--happened not to exist. In fact, the rows skipped from 50 to 56 on the Boeing 747. I got an aisle in the middle section instead. The overhead light did not work. I think there were a couple fewer inches of legroom than on most domestic flights. The flight attendant started yelling at me in Hindi when I asked if beef were an option for the entree. No, just kidding about that last part, but the airline didn't have the same luxurious feel as some of the other European carriers I've flown.
I arrived at Heathrow around 7:00, and within a couple hours I'd cleared customs, grabbed the small bag I'd checked, and was on the Underground--above ground at this point--zipping across the English countryside to the largest city in Europe. The morning sun shined mutedly through the diffuse gray clouds, and I enjoyed seeing country houses, small gardens, and town churches.
The 'Tube' feels newer and cleaner than the tired trains on Manhattan's west side. And the stations, though clearly old, seem better maintained. Strangely, the Underground is not too hard to navigate. I guess New York City is good practice. It's like I'm finding my way around some remote part of Queens. However, instead of 'Uptown' or 'Bronx-bound' trains, the trains are labeled things like Harrow or Charing Square or Waterloo, so the traveler has to quickly consult his map to determine if this is, in fact, the desired train. Commonly, the trains are labeled for the last stop on the line, but not always.
Back to my narrative. My first sights of London was from Westminster Pier. Across the Thames I could see the 'Eye of London', in front of me was Westminster Bridge, where Wordsworth penned the words in 1802,
Earth has not anything to show more fair:
Dull would he be of soul who could pass by
A sight so touching in its majesty:
This City now doth like a garment wear
The beauty of the morning; silent, bare,
Ships, towers, domes, theatres, and temples lie
Open unto the fields, and to the sky,
All bright and glittering in the smokeless air.
Never did the sun more beautifully steep
In his first splendour, valley, rock, or hill;
Ne'er saw I, never felt a calm so deep!
The river glideth at his own sweet will:
Dear God! the very houses seem asleep;
And all that mighty heart is lying still!
Behind me rose Big Ben's tower and the Houses of Parliament, and I took a stroll up Whitehall past Downing Street to Trafalgar Square. I can't help but think that despite its gargantuan size, London feels a lot more like Boston than like New York. Then again, maybe I've heard that Boston is the most 'European' American city. In any case, this is one of my first times to travel abroad where as long as I don't take out my camera and keep my mouth shut, no one can tell I don't belong.
I checked into my hotel, the gracious Hilton London Metropole, obtained at an even more gracious price of $81 per night, and took a stroll down Edgware. There must be about 30 Lebanese restaurants along the half-mile stretch to Oxford Street.
No need to recount the details of my late afternoon nap, but I did very much enjoy the concert of the Academy of St Martin in the Fields at...that's right...St Martin in the Fields. On the program were such gems as Mendelssohn's String Symphony No. 10, Holst's St Paul's Suite, and Dvorak's Serenade in E major, as well as a Mozart divertimento for an encore. The space was truly amazing. The ensemble sounded very much alive and full of energy in this 300-year-old church. The tone was rich and dark. The divertimento's sixteenth notes brimmed with electrified precision. The venue was everything a concert venue should be, except, perhaps, for the tacky 3-foot-tall brightly painted cherubs (dis)gracing the proud antiphonal organ.
I have to say that I cannot strongly recommend Air India. My seat assignment--54K--happened not to exist. In fact, the rows skipped from 50 to 56 on the Boeing 747. I got an aisle in the middle section instead. The overhead light did not work. I think there were a couple fewer inches of legroom than on most domestic flights. The flight attendant started yelling at me in Hindi when I asked if beef were an option for the entree. No, just kidding about that last part, but the airline didn't have the same luxurious feel as some of the other European carriers I've flown.
I arrived at Heathrow around 7:00, and within a couple hours I'd cleared customs, grabbed the small bag I'd checked, and was on the Underground--above ground at this point--zipping across the English countryside to the largest city in Europe. The morning sun shined mutedly through the diffuse gray clouds, and I enjoyed seeing country houses, small gardens, and town churches.
The 'Tube' feels newer and cleaner than the tired trains on Manhattan's west side. And the stations, though clearly old, seem better maintained. Strangely, the Underground is not too hard to navigate. I guess New York City is good practice. It's like I'm finding my way around some remote part of Queens. However, instead of 'Uptown' or 'Bronx-bound' trains, the trains are labeled things like Harrow or Charing Square or Waterloo, so the traveler has to quickly consult his map to determine if this is, in fact, the desired train. Commonly, the trains are labeled for the last stop on the line, but not always.
Back to my narrative. My first sights of London was from Westminster Pier. Across the Thames I could see the 'Eye of London', in front of me was Westminster Bridge, where Wordsworth penned the words in 1802,
Earth has not anything to show more fair:
Dull would he be of soul who could pass by
A sight so touching in its majesty:
This City now doth like a garment wear
The beauty of the morning; silent, bare,
Ships, towers, domes, theatres, and temples lie
Open unto the fields, and to the sky,
All bright and glittering in the smokeless air.
Never did the sun more beautifully steep
In his first splendour, valley, rock, or hill;
Ne'er saw I, never felt a calm so deep!
The river glideth at his own sweet will:
Dear God! the very houses seem asleep;
And all that mighty heart is lying still!
Behind me rose Big Ben's tower and the Houses of Parliament, and I took a stroll up Whitehall past Downing Street to Trafalgar Square. I can't help but think that despite its gargantuan size, London feels a lot more like Boston than like New York. Then again, maybe I've heard that Boston is the most 'European' American city. In any case, this is one of my first times to travel abroad where as long as I don't take out my camera and keep my mouth shut, no one can tell I don't belong.
I checked into my hotel, the gracious Hilton London Metropole, obtained at an even more gracious price of $81 per night, and took a stroll down Edgware. There must be about 30 Lebanese restaurants along the half-mile stretch to Oxford Street.
No need to recount the details of my late afternoon nap, but I did very much enjoy the concert of the Academy of St Martin in the Fields at...that's right...St Martin in the Fields. On the program were such gems as Mendelssohn's String Symphony No. 10, Holst's St Paul's Suite, and Dvorak's Serenade in E major, as well as a Mozart divertimento for an encore. The space was truly amazing. The ensemble sounded very much alive and full of energy in this 300-year-old church. The tone was rich and dark. The divertimento's sixteenth notes brimmed with electrified precision. The venue was everything a concert venue should be, except, perhaps, for the tacky 3-foot-tall brightly painted cherubs (dis)gracing the proud antiphonal organ.
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